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 Death City: Beichuan, Sichuan, China

 

BeichuanSichuanEarthquakePanorama.jpg (1084219 bytes)

  A Photo Essay of an Earthquake's Aftermath
by International Student Hao Li

 

All photos are linked to the photo gallery. If you click the photo in the gallery it will enlarge to full size and full detail.

On May 12th, 2008, at 14:38, an 8.0 magnitude earthquake struck near Wenchuan, a city in the province of Sichuan, China. By July 24th, 80,000 people had died. Beichuan, a city 130 kilometers from the epicenter, was the most destroyed. From a population of 20,000, only 4,000 survived.  

Beichuan is a city in a river valley surrounded by high hills. Until the earthquake struck they were lush and green. When the buildings began falling the residents could not stay inside and were left with only one choice – to go to the mountain side of the city. DS3_6745.

But that turned out to be worse. The earthquake caused rock slides which rushed down the mountainside killing people and burying the town. DS3_6811.

Parts of the riverbank collapsed. DS3_6659.

Wherever the people of Beichuan ran, they faced death.

For the rest of this article I will tell the story of my trip to Beichuan in the summer after school ended. I went into Beichuan with several friends who are also photographers two months after the earthquake. On the way there were already houses in ruins but their owners were not willing to leave the land that their grandparents had left them. So they set up their tents beside the remains of their homes. Others settled in the nearest public square.

I had a very interesting and ironic story.
It was the home of a famous traditional Chinese poet Li Bai or Li Po. Beside his home are two squares of open land so the government settled the survivors there. At the right side of the square survivors were making their lunch when we got there. They were preparing corn taken (fallen) from the ground. The little girl in the picture is having her summer break but she has to spend all of her time searching for food. DS3_5793.

The lady in this picture came back from somewhere far away. Her home was all cracked but she was lucky – no one had died. All her savings in the bank were spent to buy food so her family of 3 could only eat 1 potato and a small bunch of green vegetables for lunch. They could only eat meat twice a month. DS3_5802. 

The tent they lived in was unbearably hot – 120 degrees F. Even if they could have afforded a fan, there was no electricity. DS3_5811.

The old man in the photo has lost everyone in his family - his two sons and his wife. What he had now was himself and a disabled leg. He told me that he was supposed to get the equivalent of $30US per month from the government. This was now the third month and only now was he starting to get anything - $10US and a half package of rice when he was supposed to get a full one. The reason for the reduced amount, the government told him, was that since there was only him, he did not need that much money or that much rice. So many other people are busy trying to rebuild their homes but for this old man, he has no money and cannot take out a loan because he has no collateral. There was no possibility for him to ever move out from this hot tent. DS3_5839.

When people like me with our huge cameras went into his tent, maybe he thought we were journalists and he give us bottled water because he really wanted us to help him and water was all he could offer. When I looked around I saw that he drank the boiled river water. I asked him and he said he didn’t like bottled water. He was lying. When I left his tent I was drinking his water and crying. I was not a real journalist and I could not help him.  DS3_5819

When we went to leave and we saw there were many people on the left side of the square. When I got close I could see they were giving out water, rice and oil. I know it is just a show by CCP because they had flags all over the place and so many people stopped me from taking photos. They said that without government papers, you cannot take photos. When they were not paying attention I would take photos by holding the camera on my arm and not bringing it up to my face. DS3_5887

I was thinking that on opposite sides of the square there becomes a heaven and a hell.

Anyway, we can’t do anything. We had to continue our journey towards our destination, Beichuan.

Most of the roads towards Beichuan had been destroyed and all the bridges were dangerous. Engineers built bypass roads to go around the bridges. DS3_5909

Beside the road you can see the tombs of workers who died rebuilding the roads. The aftershocks brought more rocks down, crushing the workers. We thank them for guaranteeing the road by losing their lives. DS3_5981

When we got closer and closer to Beichuan the same story happened again. On both sides of the road, one side is tents and one side is houses. DS3_6057

 DS3_6057.JPG (3678416 bytes)

Lunchtime these two old men sitting beside the house were eating huiguorou (famous Sichuan dish, twice cooked pork) DS3_6082.

 DS3_6082.JPG (2484146 bytes)

But on the other side of the road they were only eating packaged noodles IMG_4568.

We kept going. There was 4 wheel drive car half buried on the road. As the two mountains slide together it formed a lake and buried everything. The army bombed the dam to reopen the road. DS3_6261

 DS3_6261.JPG (4397277 bytes)

The floodwaters covered the buildings with the bodies inside. This poisoned the water making it unsafe. The temporary water system was just built. DS3_6063

 DS3_6063.JPG (2708360 bytes)

We were upstream where the dead bodies were and downstream was the capital city of Chengdu. The government said the water in Chengdu was safe but that was a lie.

At last we finally got to Beichuan. The police set up a poison skull sign to warn people that you could be poisoned from the decaying remains of the thousands who had died. We were told not to touch anything, not even to sit on the ground. DS3_6293

 DS3_6293.JPG (3538429 bytes)

After we were out of the policemen’s sight we got into the city by climbing the mountain. We were shocked when we first saw the city because the beautiful city had no signs of life at all. Silence. Like a ghost town in a movie. I felt cold. A broken advertising sign blowing in the wind made a metallic screeching sound that was scary. DS3_6318

 DS3_6318.JPG (3796716 bytes)

All these roads had been flooded by the waters so all the people who had survived the earthquake died from the flood. We were told not to touch the silt because it was contaminated too. DS3_6333

 DS3_6333.JPG (2958208 bytes)

This couple had just been married and were having their wedding when the earthquake happened. I don’t know if they are alive. It is hard to imagine that the day they married is also the day they separated forever. DS3_6325. DS3_6889

 DS3_6325.JPG (3192546 bytes)

 DS3_6889.JPG (2516092 bytes)

Look at this chair. Can you imagine how they worried about their family when the army was trying to dig people out. DS3_6351

 DS3_6351.JPG (3447591 bytes)

Some of the roads were buried when the buildings collapsed and we could not pass through. DS3_6388

 DS3_6388.JPG (3377430 bytes)

This next picture represents something that only China has – the birth planning department. I really wanted to ask, in the earthquake time – you guys control birth, but who controls death?   DS3_6391

 DS3_6391.JPG (2841642 bytes)

So many buildings were like the following one. The first floor could not handle the pressure and collapsed from the upper stories. So many people were in the first floors and when they tried to dig people out, the buildings collapsed even more. The policeman told me that on the first day there were so many people screaming for help but it was too dangerous so they could do nothing. The yelling became fainter and fainter as people died. DS3_6430

 DS3_6430.JPG (3126488 bytes)

Buildings like this you could no longer recognize except for the gate. DS3_6451

 DS3_6451.JPG (4287923 bytes)

Even staying in a car was not safe at all. DS3_6464

 DS3_6464.JPG (4381827 bytes)

For this building the only thing left you can see is the roof, now at ground level. DS3_6523

Three buildings were under construction. What is critical is how much corruption was involved in the building process. One collapsed totally, one partially, and one did not collapse at all. How did those bad business men who used shoddy construction get approvals from the government? Bribery? DS3_6535 

 DS3_6535.JPG (4203291 bytes)

Here comes our main point – the school. Look at the building on the right. It seems nothing was damaged but you never know how students were buried on the ground floor. DS3_6568

 DS3_6568.JPG (3557194 bytes)

When you take a close look at this building you will find that they tied all the sheets and clothes together. It brings us back to that moment. Students are screaming. Desperate to live they came up with any means to try to get down from the upper floors. The stairs had collapsed. If students could not get down as soon as possible, who knew if the building would survive the aftershocks? IMG_4932

 

The army has already taken out all the bodies it could but there were also many bodies in the ruins so the army disinfected each ruin with chemicals. They would spray paint each building to tell which had been done and which had not. Two months later the air still smelled of rotting flesh. DS3_6609

 DS3_6609.JPG (4261603 bytes)

There are many more photos and they can be seen in this gallery:
http://aasquared.org/gallery/SichuanEarthquake2008

 

Below is the original draft in Chinese. The English translation includes more information after verbal discussions.

死城北川,四川,中国

2008512日下午228分(北京时间)位于中国四川省汶川县附近的地方发生了里氏8.0级的强烈地震。截止72412时,最新可查数据显示总遇难约8万人。在距离震中130公里的小城北川的受灾情况是最严重的,2万人的城只有4000多人幸存。

北川的地理构造是两面环山,中间是一条美丽的河流,而城市是环绕着河两的河堤而建的。而且在地震的时候建筑物内是绝对不安全的,所以人们都纷纷往河边或者山边跑。而地震的时候两边山上会有巨大的岩石滚落到城里。河堤也有部分垮塌。所以地震的当时,在北川,无论你在哪里,无论你怎么躲,死亡都是随之而来的。

在下面的文字里讲送上由本杂志记者
Hao Li,
在暑假期间(震后)进入北川的所见所闻:

当时我是和我们几个玩摄影的朋友一起进入北川的。在那个时候地震已经结束2个月左右了。我们是经过了绵阳,江油到达北川的。在途中,我们看到了非常多已经倒塌的房屋。而有些灾民们却舍不得离开自己祖辈传下来的房屋,他们就在房屋旁边搭建新的帐篷。而其他的灾民就被安放在了一些广场或者公用的空地上。在路上,我们也遇到了一件很有趣和很有讽刺意味的故事:

我们来到了中国古典诗人李白的故里。在他祠堂的两边是两快不大的空地。空地上有很多灾民的帐篷。在右边的空地上,居民们正在做中午饭。他们正在打理从已经废弃的田里捡回来的玉米。图中的小女孩正处SUMMER BREAK期间,而她的假期也只有花在为生活去找寻必须品上。图中这位女士是从远方回来的,因为她的家也已经完全倒塌了,索性没人受伤。她们的微薄存款早已维持不了家庭的必须。中午,他们一家三口,只有吃一个土豆和一把青菜。她告诉我,2个星期,可以吃一次肉,因为贫穷。而他们居住的地方,只是这样简陋的帐篷。在夏天,帐篷能的温度最起码能达到120F左右。他们的帐篷里不通点,而他们也不可能买得起风扇。。图中这位老人在地震中失去了他所有亲人,他的2个儿子和老婆。现在他全家只有他自己和他那一条已经残疾了的双腿。他告诉我们,政府本来发给孤寡老人的是30美圆1个月,而这次他去领钱,只发给了他10美圆。而本来该发给他的一袋米(25KG)也只发了半袋。政府给他的理由是,你全家只有你一个人了,你吃不了那么多米,用不了那么多钱。而刚刚开始的灾民贷款修新房也需要东西低压,他处了已经残疾的性命也没什么好低压给银行的了,所以他也不知道哪天才能走出这炎热的帐篷。看着我们这些拿照相机的人来,他以为是记者。他多希望有人能帮他啊。DS3_5819他拿出少有的矿泉水给我们,我回头看了看,他自己却喝着自己从河里打起来烧开后的冷开水。他告诉我们,他不喜欢喝矿泉水,多低级和善良的谎言啊。我喝着他给的矿泉水,泪不禁得往下流,因为,我能帮他吗?他已经拿出他最后的财产希望能换取记者对他的帮助,而我却无能为力。正准备离开,我们却看见左边的广场上人很多,我们过去看看。左边的广场挂着红旗。我马上就明白了,那是CCPSHOW的灾民安置区(左边广场离公路更近),他们分发着米,食用油和水。当我们举着相机拍照的时候居然有人过来阻止我们,说没有政府的批文,我们不能拍。在他们不留神的时候,我也偷偷拍了一张。我在想,两个灾民区,一个离路近,一个离路远,待遇完全不一样。多辛酸和可笑啊。

无奈,我们继续去往我们这次旅途的目的地,北川。

去北川的路已经被地震毁得差不多了。几乎所有的桥梁都已经成了危桥,而工程师们只有另外开一条路给车走。


在路边,到处可以见到为抢修公路被余震震下的泥土活埋的工人们。在这里,不许感谢他们用生命换来这条道路的畅通。

当我们越来越靠近北川,跟刚才同样的故事又出现了。在路的两边,一边是帐篷。一边是没倒塌的房屋。正是中午饭的时间,路的左边住这两位老大爷正吃着回锅肉(四川美食)。而公路另外一边的母亲只能吃方便面。

继续走着,我们在路上看到一俩被半埋在土中的越野车。那是因为在地震的时候,河道两边的山滑到一起了,把整个河道的水位抬高形成了大型的湖。而当时这个汽车就在湖底,当军队把塞住河道的石头清理掉的时候水又退了,这样我们才能顺利开上来。

而那些浸泡过尸体的河水是被认为是有毒的,周围的临时用水设施已经启动了。但是在下游的成都,人们也在担心他们是否喝着这些有毒的水。政府在电视里坦然得告诉大家:没毒。看来,我们都被骗了。

最后,我们终于走到了北川。警察立了一块有骷髅头的牌子,意思是说进去容易中毒,而我们却没怕,直接进入了北川。

当然是逃避了警察的视线,从山上翻墙进入的。当我们进入后确实被震撼了。一地的废墟。若大个美丽的小城却没有一个生命的痕迹。跟电影上看到的鬼城一点差别没有。我全身都感到一阵寒冷。已经坏掉的广告灯箱被风吹动发出一阵阵恐怖的呻吟更加刺激着我们恐怖的心。

看着曾经被淹没过的路,我想起,那些曾经可能还活在地下室出不来的人们估计也被这无情的河水在最后夺去了他们的生命吧。

在地震的那天,这对新人正在举行他们的婚礼。我不知道这对新人是否都还活着。真的很难想象结婚那天如果就是他们永远分别的那天是多么悲伤的事啊。

看着这些椅子,它让我想起曾经坐在上面等待着士兵们救起他们的亲人的人们的心情是多么的焦急啊。

有些街道都已经被废墟埋得无法通行了。

这是中国特有的,计划生育管理中心,地震的时候我很想问,你们管理着生育,又是谁掌握着死亡?

很多楼都像这个楼一样,1层无法承担压力被压了下去。太多人被埋在下面而军队也无法去救他们,因为如果用工具施工引起的震动随时可能让整个楼都倒下来。而我也听过在城外守门的警察讲:根本忙不过来,太多人在下面叫了。有的不敢去救,而且太多人了,根本忙不过来。只有听着他们声音越来越弱,最后没有求救的声音。

也有建筑像这样,倒塌得根本无法识别它以前是干什么的,只有一个大门我们我们还勉强可以忍出来。 

就算在车上,也不是绝对的安全。

这个建筑也倒塌得只有房顶了。

在新建的三个楼。他们非常具有讽刺性:一个完全倒塌了,一个变成了危楼,一个完好无损。它很好得说明了这些黑心的商人们是怎么偷工减料的。


我们最后还是到了我们要看的重点:学校。看看右边那个建筑,看起来好象没怎么倒塌,其实最下面那层不知道埋了多少学生。当你仔细看这个大楼的时候会发现这些绑在一起的床单和衣服。这仿佛又让我回到了地震那一刻:学生们减叫求救。求生的本能促使他们想尽所有的办法从楼上逃下来。而楼梯早就不能用了。而如果不赶快下来,谁知道什么时候还会有余震,楼会不会完全倒?

军队已经把所有能看见的尸体都抬了出去处理了。却还有很多尸体被埋在这些废墟中,所以军队只有在每一片废墟上消毒然后写一点标记。

图片太多了,所以请大家去图库看吧,我可能会陆续上传更多的图片。
 

 

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